Vila Franca de Xira Wears Ribatejo on Its Sleeves
- Claudine Boeglin
- May 26
- 10 min read
In recent years, real estate investors have shown flair, boldness—and rewards—by crossing the Tagus River. Lisbon South Bay, from Seixal to Barreiro, is now a well-established territory for property investments and new housing developments, offering a “Brooklyn gazing at Manhattan” vibe with its cool riverfronts.
Renovations and new builds have helped shift the local demographics, bringing in a younger and more diverse population. Contemporary housing design, often using eco-friendly materials, has successfully attracted a growing number of young families.
And while the Rio Tejo (Tagus River) remains the lively artery of Greater Lisbon, it may be time to rotate your compass north—towards Santarém.
First stop: Vila Franca de Xira.
Vila Franca de Xira, train station and street scenes.
A Cultural Heartbeat Just Minutes from Lisbon
Just 20 minutes by train from Lisbon Oriente and 25 minutes from Santa Apolónia, this city is quickly becoming a new darling for real estate speculation.
Vila Franca de Xira was founded around 1200 by French followers of Portugal’s first king, Afonso Henriques. Its deep connection to the countryside and livestock farming has shaped a cultural identity that mixes festa brava (bullfighting) with entertainment, giving the town its bold signature.
The storytelling unfolds across the town’s streets and street-corner cafés, such as Leitaria Jockey, next to the mercado where striking bullfighting iconography—heroic fighters and matadors—fill up the walls. You’ll quickly notice the bull as a recurring symbol throughout the city.
Circle the 360-degree outer façades of the municipal market and you’ll find stunning blue azulejo panels celebrating the influencers of another era: farmers, Campinos on their agile horses, and bulls grazing the high wetlands. Soon, the town’s tapestry—where farmers become bullfighters become horsemen—will get under your skin. Before long, you’ll catch yourself pushing back the timetable of your return train to Lisbon. And then jump back on that train a following day...
Municipal market.
Vila Franca de Xira: Courage and Audacity
Vila Franca de Xira was officially elevated to city status in 1984—but eureka! It still retains what tends to disappear in most cities: a shoe repair shop, a great hardware store, clothing alterations, and essential shops for everyday life.
Pick up a flat pan and a few local stories at the beautifully restored Drogaria Franca, which just reopened after two years of renovation. Chat with the owner—once a photojournalist who excels in camera work and dark rooms.
Drogaria Franca.
Quirky Modern Art
Explore Vila Franca de Xira’s cultural spaces one by one—you won’t find venues like these anywhere else.
Where else can you visit a Museum of Neo-Realism or a Fábrica das Palavras (Word Factory)? Once a rice husking plant, this striking modern building along the river now houses the municipal library and a vibrant cultural center.
At the Museu do Neo-Realismo, the three-screen video installation She Lost Control is proof that Vila Franca de Xira isn’t a village—it’s a city with a contemporary art curatorial focus.
Irreverent caricatures by some of Portugal’s top cartoonists are on display at Cartoon Xira 2025, held at Celeiro da Patriarcal.
Fabrica das Palavras (Word Factory), and harbor.
Green Escapes & Riverfront Trails
If you’d rather live large outdoors, Vila Franca de Xira is a bath of chlorophyll. Walk or cycle along the scenic Trilho do Tejo, part of the Lisbon Metropolitan Ecological Network. The nearly 6,000-mile trail, leads all the way to Praia dos Pescadores in Póvoa de Santa Iria. By bike, it's 45-minute ride.
EVOA: Birdwatching in the Wetlands
Located in the heart of the Tagus Estuary Nature Reserve, EVOA is one of Portugal’s premier birdwatching destinations. More than 200 species pass through or nest in these wetlands. The site also features an interpretation center and rotating exhibitions focused on wildlife and conservation.
Estuary and flamingos. The region is a paradise for #birdwatching.
Future Living
Vila Franca de Xira is part of the Lisbon Metropolitan Area—just 39 minutes by car (36.4 km via the A1). By train, the industrial outskirts of eastern Lisbon gradually give way to a velvet-green carpet of Ribatejo wetlands. That’s your cue to disembark.
Right across from the train station, the scene is fearlessly funky. The town feels like a blend of Margate on the UK coast or Red Hook in Brooklyn, with a touch of Greenpoint before around twenty new developments reshaped its landscape from 2018 onwards.
The elegant station—one of the busiest after leaving Lisbon Oriente—faces Vilafranca Centro. Once one of Portugal’s largest shopping centers, it hosted 180 stores and the country’s first IMAX theater when it opened in 1994. Dormant for over a decade, this bold structure may soon be reborn. The city council is currently discussing plans to transform it into a hub for affordable housing, local shops, and office space.
Bowling Bingo. The city side of the train station.
Jardim Municipal Constantino Palha, facing the Tagus River.
Casa Museu Mario Coelho.
A Quirky Charm That Sticks
The city’s architecture is perhaps what first catches the eye—especially those with a visual flair or a taste for the offbeat. Rather than polished and still, these streets are a fun chaos. Half the houses seem mid-renovation, waiting for buyers and investors to bring in design concepts of their own.
And what keeps you in town is the kindness of the people you meet in shops, cafés, and at the municipal market. It instantly wins you over. You soon find yourself idling through streets and scattered squares, and when you stop at Taberna Sevilla, where a joyful crowd is glued to the screen, Vila Franca de Xira becomes personal. Bullfighting bridges generations.
At packed Taberna Sevilla, the whole town is in awe of the Portuguese prodigy Tomás Bastos, who’s fighting at Madrid’s San Isidro Fair 2025, held at Las Ventas bullring. “Courage and grace is a formidable mixture. The only place to see it is the bullring,” once said actress Marlene Dietrich. At the back of Sevilla, sipping a Sagres and catching your breath, it's hard to resist the high of both.
Taberna Sevilla. On screen, Portuguese prodigy Tomás Bastos.
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Part of “The Most Exciting Generation of Novilleros,” Portuguese prodigy Tomás Bastos is “the great Portuguese hope—a torero with instinct, versatility, and a fresh approach.” His mentor: the legendary Cristina Sánchez.
Palha Blanco: Arena and Museum
Bullfighting in Portugal and Spain differs in one key aspect. In Portuguese bullfighting, the bull is not killed in the arena. Also, the spectacle involves cavaleiros (horsemen) and forcados (bull wrestlers), who together stage a dramatic, almost theatrical performance. In Spanish bullfighting, the matador kills the bull in the ring.
Right beyond Fábrica das Palavras, at the Palha Blanco Praça de Toiros (bullring), you’ll find the Ethnographic Museum, which immerses you in both bullfighting and Ribatejo culture. You’ll learn about the strong local traditions of esperas (bull-catching) and Festa Brava (bullfight celebrations).
The city’s major annual event, Colete Encarnado (July 4–6), celebrates bullfighting with parades, concerts, and community energy. Just as relevant are Semana da Cultura Tauromáquica in March and the Feira Anual de Outubro, held each fall.
Palha Branco Praça de Toiros. A sailing boat on the Tagus River.
The Story of Two Bridges
The Ponte Marechal Carmona, inaugurated in 1951, was the first bridge to cross the Tagus River in the Lisbon region—and remains the only free crossing today.
It marked a significant chapter in Vila Franca de Xira’s story. From its agricultural heyday, the city evolved into a cultural hub, building a layered history and a lasting appeal. And when Ponte 25 de Abril was built, the city had to reinvent its raison d'être.
The Campino
The Campino is the cowboy of Ribatejo.
“The campino or traditional mounted herdsman, is the talismanic figure who dominates rural Ribatejo. He is the rugged custodian of the countryside and its customs and he is revered by the people who have carved out their livelihoods from this epic landscape.”
While daydreaming through the window of the train, the bucolic unspoiled natural landscape unfolding along the serpentine riverfront, one might remember the “day-to-day struggle to survive, and the Campino was at the forefront of taming this landscape.”
Source
Quinta Municipal de Subserra.
A Celebration of Regional Wines
At Quinta Municipal de Subserra, Encostas de Xira brings together music, local wine, and traditional Portuguese cuisine, celebrating the region's winemaking roots.
Originally founded in the 17th century to grow vines, Quinta de Subserra was acquired by the municipality in 2008. A new vineyard was planted to preserve and revive local wine production. In 2016, the project gained momentum with a multidisciplinary team in viticulture, oenology, and communication—showing a clear commitment to quality and innovation. Source.
Renovation potentials all across the center of the city.
Property Development: The Future Is Now
The new gold rush for buyers and real estate investors is spreading across the Ribatejo region. Our blog on Santarém started this journey along the Tagus River. It’s where Pedro Álvares Cabral, the navigator who discovered Brazil, settled and is buried—adding historical weight to its growing appeal.
Vila Franca de Xira & Seixal: Brothers-in-Arms
We compare Vila Franca de Xira to Seixal—both trusted, both growing, both marked by the X pronounced “sh”, as if brothers-in-arms.
Vila Franca de Xira, the new kid on the block, mirrors Seixal in more ways than one. Both sit by the estuary: Mouchão do Lombo do Tejo, in Vila Franca de Xira county, echoes Seixal’s bay and Alfeite beach.
Vila Franca da Xira, part of the Metropolitan Area of Lisbon.
Distance from Lisbon
Vila Franca de Xira: 36.4 km (22.6 miles) northeast of Lisbon. Easy train access from Oriente, Santa Apolónia, and Alcântara-Terra.
Seixal: Around 12 km (7.5 miles) from Lisbon. Best served by ferry.
Population
Vila Franca de Xira: ~140,000
Seixal: ~170,000, with sharp growth driven by urban development and migration.
Population Breakdown
Vila Franca de Xira is an emerging market with a largely Portuguese population. Its unique appeal lies in its original architecture and proximity to Lisbon. The demographic leans slightly older, reflecting its rural heritage.
Seixal once shared this profile but now has a notably younger population, driven by new housing developments that appeal to families.
Political Landscape
Vila Franca de Xira has a centrist political landscape, with representation from several parties including the Socialist and Social Democratic parties. Policies focus on infrastructure and cultural preservation.
Seixal is governed by a left-leaning coalition, predominantly the Socialist Party.
Economic Focus
Vila Franca de Xira benefits from its riverside location, supporting trade and transport. Its economy blends agriculture, commerce, and light industry.
Seixal leans more on services and manufacturing, with some agriculture, and its proximity to Lisbon continues to attract businesses.
Former military facilities underway of transformation.
Residential Momentum
Former military facilities—once home to the sailors' school until August 2009—became municipal property in 2017. Plans are underway to build the new Vila Franca de Xira Courthouse here and convert the area into a mix of housing, business, and leisure zones.
Housing Projects
Modern developments: apartments and single-family homes, geared toward young families and professionals.
Affordable initiatives: local government-backed programs to meet rising demand from those priced out of Lisbon.
Commercial and Mixed-Use Growth
Projects include shops, restaurants, and services, designed to support residents who no longer need to commute.
Mixed-use zones are in the works, blending residential, commercial, and recreational spaces for better community life.
Public Amenities
Significant investments in parks, recreational zones, and community facilities are improving life quality—particularly attractive for those who want to leave Lisbon without losing access to services.
Revitalizing History
Ongoing efforts to restore historic areas will appeal to cultural and eco-tourists seeking authentic experiences, rich regional cuisine, local wines, and celebrations you can't replicate anywhere else.
Cultural Festivals
Events remain key to community life. Even in just two half-days, local festivals prove their power: strengthening identity, boosting small business, and drawing visitors.
Sustainable Development
The city’s focus on sustainable urban planning is clear:
Green spaces
Eco-friendly building practices
Long-term strategies to grow without losing character
Ongoing upgrades in transport links, including expanded train services and bike infrastructure, make Vila Franca de Xira an ideal choice for car-free living.
Conclusion
A Region with Identity
Pedro Dias, Director of RE/MAX Vantagem Plaza, shares the story of his Quinta (farm). In 2019, he purchased a ruined farm property—430 square meters on 2,800 hectares—for €86,000. After restoration, someone recently offered him €500,000. He refused. “Why?” we asked. “Because these Quintas are now very hard to find.” Perhaps one million would convince him—a price tag that’s become the entry point for the most modest fisherman’s house in Comporta.
Vila Franca de Xira remains highly affordable. In 2021, a two-bedroom apartment before renovation cost around €150,000. Today, prices range between €200,000 and €220,000.
Waiting for the train in the late afternoon.
Don’t miss the train.
The Ribatejo region, stretching along the banks of the Tagus, is defined by its fertile plains, deep agricultural roots, and enduring traditions—including bullfighting. It reflects a blend of historical depth, gastronomic heritage, and natural beauty—a reservoir of Portugal’s inland identity.
Call it Vila Franca de Xira, or just VFX, as the municipality coins it. The region has worked hard to preserve its vibrant culture—from festivals to falcons, farmland to unique wine and food experiences. If bullfighting retains an enduring choreography passed through generations, Vila Franca de Xira has passed master in blending history, innovation, and irreverence—:)
The convergence of residential growth, commercial development, transport infrastructure, and a strong emphasis on cultural continuity is positioning Vila Franca de Xira as a compelling location for both residents and businesses at 20 minutes from Lisbon.
For those invested in the future of urban development within the Lisbon metropolitan area, Vila Franca de Xira is a territory to watch. Its active cultural lifestyle, larger living spaces, and connection to nature evoke what Brighton once offered to London in the 1990s—when waves of independent creators sought space to live and work from home.
Today, Vila Franca de Xira is drawing people who prioritize sustainability, cultural preservation, and the well-being economy, and car-free lifestyles. For investors and developers, there is clear opportunity across the county, supported by diverse demographic and economic drivers.
And if in doubt—tour the region. Its evolving landscape and visible real estate momentum tell the story better than any brochure.
Ribatejo’s future is steadily growing along its numerous scaffolders.
Our next destinations
Portugal is seeing a record surge in tourism, with 30% of this summer’s bookings coming from the U.S. alone. A recent National Tourism Board (NTP) report shows a 7% rise in flight bookings and a 13% increase in hotel bookings—with North American travelers leading the way. The number of US citizens living in Portugal has accelerated in recent years, having increased more than sevenfold from 2017, the date of the first term of the current US President, Donald Trump. Source.
Alenquer: For its vineyards, scenic valleys, and historical hilltop houses. A gateway to Lisbon wine country with an elegant historical center and deep links to Portuguese royalty. It was the birthplace of explorer Vasco da Gama’s ancestors after all.
Tomar: A UNESCO Jewel with Rising Appeal
Tomar is one of Ribatejo’s crown jewels. Once the seat of the Knights Templar in Portugal, the city is home to the Convent of Christ, a UNESCO World Heritage Site. With its Manueline architecture and layered history, Tomar is rapidly gaining attention among heritage travelers. Tourism data reflects this: visitor numbers have steadily increased, with local accommodation growing to meet demand from both European and North American markets.
Youth in the historic center of Vila Franca da Xira.
Vila Franca da Xira, a house shelters under a bridge. To know more about the city, consult the highly-efficient city's website. Mojo Real Estate Solutions is an international team of experts helping you find your ideal property in Portugal. Based in #Estrela #Lisbon, Mojo is a boutique #realestate scouting and cherry picking the perfect property in your dream location, specifics, and budget. Mojo Team scouts each desired region and city, leads the purchase process, masters the renovations, and places your property for short and long-term rent, striving optimal yields for our investors via concierge services.
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